Rolex is a name synonymous with luxury, precision, and durability. Among the brand’s most iconic models, the Rolex Submariner stands out as a legendary diving watch, symbolizing both high-performance and elegance. However, Rolex watches associated with historical moments — like two specific Submariners connected to the infamous Titanic — transcend their role as timekeeping instruments and become rare artifacts of human history.
This December, Sotheby’s will auction two unique Rolex Submariners, both worn by Al Giddings, a cinematographer and deep-sea diver who documented and explored the Titanic wreckage.
As these watches come up for auction, they offer not only collectors but also history enthusiasts a glimpse into the world of underwater exploration and the role that precision watches have played in such daring endeavors.
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The Legacy of Rolex and the Iconic Submariner
Founded in 1905, Rolex has established itself as one of the most respected watchmakers globally. Over the decades, Rolex watches have been worn by explorers, scientists, and deep-sea divers, proving the brand’s commitment to precision and durability in extreme environments. The Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1953, was one of the first watches designed specifically for underwater use. Known for its durability, water resistance, and iconic design, the Submariner quickly gained popularity among divers and adventurers.
Rolex watches aren’t just timekeepers; they are trusted tools in scenarios where precise timing can make a difference between life and death. The Submariner line, celebrated for its exceptional water resistance, has played a role in some of history’s most remarkable underwater expeditions. With its robust build and design, the Rolex Submariner has become the preferred choice for divers worldwide. However, two models from this iconic line have a deeper historical significance, as they have survived numerous expeditions, including dives to the Titanic’s wreck.
The Titanic’s Wreck and Its Underwater Exploration
The sinking of the Titanic in 1912 remains one of the most tragic maritime disasters in history. The shipwreck lay undiscovered in the North Atlantic Ocean for over seven decades, becoming a symbol of lost opulence and human vulnerability. In 1985, Dr. Robert Ballard and his team finally located the Titanic’s resting place, approximately 12,500 feet below sea level. Since then, fewer than 250 people have had the privilege of visiting the Titanic wreckage due to the extreme technical and physical challenges associated with such a deep dive.
Al Giddings, a renowned underwater cinematographer and Titanic explorer, was among the few to witness the Titanic’s haunting remnants firsthand. Over the years, Giddings became one of the leading experts on deep-sea exploration, working on numerous shipwrecks and documenting the Titanic’s remains. His role in the underwater scenes of James Cameron’s Titanic film, which won several Academy Awards in 1998, further cemented his place in the lore surrounding the legendary ship.
The Watches: Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 and Rolex ‘Nipple Dial’ Submariner
Two specific Rolex Submariner models from Giddings’ collection — the Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 and the Rolex ‘Nipple Dial’ Submariner — have gained historical and collectible value due to their connection to the Titanic exploration. Both of these watches were used extensively during Giddings’ expeditions and have developed an almost mythical status among watch enthusiasts and historians.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680
The Rolex Ref. 1680 Submariner is revered among watch collectors for its durability and unique aesthetic appeal. Introduced in the late 1960s, the Ref. 1680 was the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, an advancement that increased its practicality for divers and explorers. Built with the brand’s signature water resistance capabilities, this model quickly became popular among professional divers who needed a reliable watch in unpredictable underwater conditions.
Giddings relied on this model during his Titanic expeditions and numerous other deep-sea explorations, including dives to the Andrea Doria, the wrecks at Truk Lagoon, Bikini Atoll, the North Pole, and Antarctica. According to Giddings, the Rolex Ref. 1680 functioned flawlessly during each mission, withstanding varying pressures and environmental conditions. His endorsement of the Ref. 1680 highlights the importance of dependable equipment for explorers who operate in the world’s most hostile environments.
Sotheby’s estimates the Ref. 1680’s value between $20,000 and $40,000, a price tag that reflects not only its historical usage but also its performance in some of the most challenging underwater conditions. For collectors, owning such a watch means possessing a piece of history that endured the unforgiving ocean depths, bearing witness to one of humanity’s greatest tragedies.
The Rolex ‘Nipple Dial’ Submariner
In addition to the Ref. 1680, Giddings owned a Rolex ‘Nipple Dial’ Submariner, a rare and sought-after model among Rolex collectors. Named for the raised markers on its dial that resemble “nipples,” this unique feature adds a distinctive design characteristic to the model, distinguishing it from other Submariners. The ‘Nipple Dial’ was a gift to Giddings from T. Walker Lloyd, a diver who collaborated with Rolex to enhance the brand’s underwater technology.
Notably, this watch made a brief appearance in James Cameron’s Titanic movie. While filming, actor Bill Paxton, who played a treasure hunter in the film, borrowed the watch to add authenticity to his character’s appearance. This moment in film history further solidifies the watch’s significance, linking it to both the Titanic wreckage and one of the most iconic films of the 1990s.
The Rolex ‘Nipple Dial’ Submariner is expected to fetch between $30,000 and $60,000 at auction, driven by its uniqueness and association with both Titanic explorations and the movie industry. Its connection to Lloyd, Giddings, and Paxton makes it a fascinating collectible for watch enthusiasts and Titanic aficionados alike.
A New Chapter for Two Legendary Watches
These two watches have endured decades of extreme underwater conditions, diving to great depths, and participating in cinematic history. Their auction on December 6, 2024, marks a new chapter for these timepieces, allowing the public to own a piece of Rolex’s storied legacy. Sotheby’s, a renowned auction house with a reputation for showcasing rare collectibles, recognizes the historical and cultural significance of these watches, anticipating significant interest from collectors around the globe.
Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s global head of watches, acknowledges that no other timepieces boast such extensive underwater exposure. These Rolex Submariners are not just watches but artifacts that encapsulate the spirit of exploration and human curiosity. The watches carry the legacy of the Titanic and the dedication of the explorers who have risked their lives to uncover the secrets of the deep.
Why Rolex Submariners Are More Than Just Timepieces
Rolex Submariners have consistently demonstrated their durability, accuracy, and resistance to extreme conditions. While other watch brands have developed their own diving models, Rolex’s reputation is nearly unparalleled due to its combination of engineering expertise and unwavering commitment to quality. For divers, explorers, and adventurers, Rolex represents reliability and excellence. However, Giddings’ two Rolex watches go beyond functionality; they embody historical moments and symbolize the human fascination with the ocean’s mysteries.
As technology advances, fewer explorers rely on mechanical watches for their expeditions. Yet, vintage models like the Rolex Submariner hold a unique allure, not only for their timeless design but also for the stories they carry. With the increasing rarity of mechanical watches used in groundbreaking expeditions, these Submariners remind us of a time when human courage and robust tools paved the way for exploration and discovery.
