Purchasing a new coat is often an exciting experience, especially as the weather begins to cool and the need for stylish yet functional outerwear becomes more pressing. Whether you’ve invested in a tailored overcoat, a trench coat, or a stylish pea coat, there’s something undeniably satisfying about slipping into a fresh new layer. A good coat can last you years and make an impressive statement, exuding style, class, and attention to detail.
However, there’s one simple yet important step that many people overlook once they acquire their new outerwear: removing the tacking stitch.
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The Tacking Stitch: What Is It?
You’ve probably noticed a small “X”-shaped stitch on the back of your coat, holding the vent (or vents) together. This is known as the tacking stitch, and its purpose is purely functional, not aesthetic. Typically, this stitch is found at the bottom of the coat’s rear vent, the small slit in the back of the coat that allows for easier movement. If your coat has two vents, you’ll likely find this stitch at the base of both slits.
The tacking stitch serves a very specific purpose: it holds the coat’s shape during transport and display. When coats are being shipped from the manufacturer to the store, and when they’re hanging on a rack waiting to be purchased, the tacking stitch ensures that the coat doesn’t lose its form or become wrinkled. In essence, it’s there to keep the garment neat for you, the buyer, so that it looks crisp when you first try it on.
But here’s the thing—once you’ve bought the coat, the tacking stitch is no longer needed. In fact, leaving it on can detract from both the functionality and the aesthetic of your new coat.
Why You Should Remove the Tacking Stitch
Leaving the tacking stitch in place after purchasing your coat is a common mistake, but one that can be easily corrected. Here’s why it’s important to remove it:
Enhanced Movement and Comfort
The primary function of the vent in a coat is to provide mobility. The vent allows for a greater range of movement when you walk, sit, or bend. If the vent is tacked shut, you’ll find that your coat feels stiff and restrictive, preventing you from moving naturally. Imagine trying to sit down in a long overcoat without the ability to properly adjust the way it lays around you. Removing the tacking stitch immediately improves the coat’s comfort by allowing the vent to open as intended.
Improved Aesthetics
Men’s coats, particularly tailored pieces like overcoats or suit jackets, are designed with clean lines and elegant silhouettes. The vent is an important part of that design, as it helps the coat drape correctly and adds visual interest to the back. Leaving the tacking stitch in place keeps the vent closed, which can make the coat look awkward or ill-fitted. The clean, intentional opening of the vent adds sophistication to the overall appearance of the coat.
Avoid Looking Like a Novice
One of the most telltale signs of someone who isn’t familiar with proper clothing etiquette is leaving the tacking stitch in place. It’s a small detail, but one that makes a big difference in how others perceive your outfit. By removing the tacking stitch, you’re signaling that you understand how clothing is meant to be worn and that you’re paying attention to the finer points of your style. Simply put, it’s a sign that you know what you’re doing when it comes to dressing well.
How to Remove the Tacking Stitch
Now that you understand why removing the tacking stitch is essential, let’s walk through the simple steps to get it done. You won’t need any fancy tools—just a steady hand, a pair of scissors (or a seam ripper), and a few minutes of your time.
Step 1: Find the Tacking Stitch
First, locate the tacking stitch at the base of the vent(s) on the back of your coat. It’s typically in the shape of an “X,” though it can vary depending on the manufacturer.
Step 2: Snip Carefully
Using a small pair of sharp scissors, carefully snip one side of the stitch. Be sure to work slowly and precisely to avoid accidentally cutting into the fabric of the coat itself.
Step 3: Pull Out the Thread
Once you’ve cut the stitch, you should be able to gently pull the rest of the thread out by hand. If the thread is stubborn, you can use the tip of the scissors or a seam ripper to help remove it. Take care not to tug too hard, as this could damage the fabric.
Step 4: Inspect the Vent
After you’ve removed the tacking stitch, inspect the vent to make sure that it’s laying properly and that no stray threads are left behind. If necessary, you can give the area a quick press with a steam iron to smooth out any creases.
And that’s it! In just a few simple steps, you’ve elevated the look and functionality of your coat, ensuring that it both looks and feels the way it was intended to.
The Same Rule Applies to Blazers and Suit Jackets
While we’ve been focusing on overcoats, it’s important to note that the same rule applies to other garments with vents, such as blazers and suit jackets. When you purchase a new blazer or suit jacket, you’ll often find a similar tacking stitch holding the vents together. As with your coat, you should remove this stitch before wearing the jacket to ensure maximum comfort and a polished appearance.
Additionally, you might notice that some blazers and suit jackets come with a brand tag stitched to the sleeve. This tag, like the tacking stitch, is temporary and meant to be removed before you wear the garment. Leaving it on is another telltale sign that you’re new to the world of suits, so take a moment to carefully remove it with a pair of scissors.
Other Important Details to Check When You Buy a New Coat
Now that you’ve removed the tacking stitch, there are a few other small but important details to address when you buy a new coat. These finishing touches will ensure that your outerwear is as sharp as possible.
1. Check the Pockets
Many coats come with the pockets sewn shut. This is another functional decision made by manufacturers to preserve the shape of the coat during shipping and display. While some people prefer to leave these stitches in place to maintain a sleek look, others choose to open the pockets for convenience. If you want to use the pockets, carefully snip the stitches with scissors, just as you did with the tacking stitch.
2. Remove Any Temporary Tags
In addition to the sleeve tag on blazers and suit jackets, some coats may come with temporary tags stitched onto the garment. These are meant to be removed before wearing the coat. A good rule of thumb is that any tags on the outside of the garment are temporary and should be removed, while tags on the inside, such as care labels, are meant to stay.
3. Check for Any Loose Threads
Finally, inspect your new coat for any loose threads that may have been left behind during manufacturing. While these are typically harmless, they can detract from the overall look of the coat. Use a small pair of scissors to snip any stray threads you find.
Why Details Matter in Style
When it comes to fashion, the devil truly is in the details. Small decisions, like removing the tacking stitch or snipping loose threads, can have a significant impact on how your clothing looks and feels. By taking the time to address these minor details, you’re showing that you care about your appearance and that you understand the nuances of style.
For many, style is a form of self-expression. The clothes you wear say something about who you are, and paying attention to the finer points of your outfit helps you present yourself in the best possible light. Whether you’re wearing a coat, a suit, or even a casual jacket, showing an understanding of proper garment care and etiquette elevates your entire look.
